Greek Food
Gastronomy
The word itself is Greek, directly translated meaning "the science of food", most commonly used to describe "The art or science of good eating". Others have defined it as: "The relationship between culture and food", but talking about Greek gastronomy the best definition is probably the one that was first used: "The relationship between the senses and food, treating enjoyment at the table as a science". (Brillat-Savarin, late 19th century)
Socrates revealed the opinion the Greeks had about food when he said "The idea is not abundance", indicating that food is about satisfaction of all senses, with pleasure for body and soul.
To enjoy a meal like the locals do it, it is not enough to eat the same dishes: For the Greeks the meal is more than just its food, it is not only what you it, it is how you eat it.
The receipt for a perfect feast was - and still is - a good company.
Food in antiquity.
Wine, olive and bread were symbols of life - civilized life - in ancient Greece.
These were man-made and refined products, representing man's victory over dependency on nature's raw products.
Some key ingredients defining tastes in ancient food were honey, vinegar and sauce based on salted fish, along with vegetables, fish and meat.
The symposium reflects a lifestyle, directly translated meaning "drinking with company", indicating that food and drink was a social activity. The symposium was a way for the wealthy and male (only) to meet others, listen to music, discuss, play games and enjoy pleasurable hours from early afternoon to late night. Some of the great philosophical disputes have emerged from symposiums, where food and drink was served in the correct order:
Wine mixed with honey, bread, appetisers, fruit, fresh fish and then meat. The epidorpion; "dessert", would often consist of nuts, dried fruits, pies, sweets, cheese and during the night: wine mixed with water.
The ancient cuisine was continued by the Romans, and glorified in their much described feasts. This excess so uncharacteristic for the Greeks were eliminated during the modesty-seeking Byzantine Era, and the Greek tastes spread throughout the Eastern Empire.
The notion that Greek food today is a combination of the Italian and Turkish kitchen is not correct, in fact some Greek receipts have stayed unchanged for over 2000 years. As the Greek olive oil has a unique aroma, this is one of the reasons the food has kept its characteristics until today.
Unfortunately it takes an effort to find real, authentic food today as many traditional taverns have become more mainstream and the old receipts adjusted to the tastes of tourism. But the pride in the food is still there, as is the deeply rooted social affair of sharing a meal. Greek food is best when enjoyed in Greece, and Lesvos is an ideal place to discover, sense and taste the Greek gastronomy.
The tastes of Lesvos.
With a remarkably advanced civilization already in the Bronze age, the Lesvians were amongst the first able to produce olive oil. The high quality oil surpassed wine in importance on ancient Lesvos, and the virgin "golden oil" is also today known for its taste, texture, richness in single insatiable fatty acids, low levels of chlorophyll, and is a very important part of the cooking.
Today as before, the island is close to self-sufficient as most goods can be harvested form the fruitful land and rich seas.
The secrets behind the tastes of Lesvos are both well known and appreciated:
Seasonal, local vegetables allowed to mature under the Aegean sun, free grazing sheep and goats giving the meat and milk its unique taste, wild growing herbs, the many cheeses, the tasty fish and plenty of good oil - combined with local ouzo or wine.
Ouzo has a 200 years tradition on Lesvos, and special ouzo-mezedes (small appetisers) have got a new popularity. With the Gulf of Kalloni being especially rich, the seafood on Lesvos is unique and sough after.
The sardines of Kalloni are the best in Greece, and many come to enjoy these and the tasty oysters. Try also fresh shellfish, clams or the traditional salted sardines, anchovies and types of mackerel.
Greece is more than feta cheese: the nation has 1st place in cheese-consumption in Europe, and produces as much as 50 different types. Lesvos has several of them, such as the hard-cheese Graviera, often served fried.
Lesvos also has other specialties, such as as Sfouggato, the local vegetable marrow, and kiskieki, a special mix of minced meat and wheat often found at festivals and religious events.
With a history so connected to Asia Minor, many typical dishes on Lesvos are common with those found in parts of Turkey today, while not so usual on mainland Greece. One example is Imam, baked eggplant, another is Soutzoukakia, spice, tasty meatballs in tomato sauce. The pastry-sweet baklava has the same name in Turkey, and Greek coffee is made and drunk after the same principles as in the neighbouring country.
As receipts are being forgotten, the "Women Co-operative of Lesvos" work on a volunteer basis to preserve knowledge and produce typical food, especially sweets. Outside of Molivos they have a combined cafe and shop.
The day and its meals
An average day has two warm meals: lunch and dinner, and whether enjoyed at home or in a tavern, they are social, relaxed, loud and late.
Breakfast is often light, maybe dried bread dipped in tea, or coffee with a sweet biscuit.
With a snack during the day, the mood and need for a large and lasting lunch around 2-3 pm is established, followed by a siesta in the hot mid-day hours, lasting until 5-6 pm.
Dinner is normally eaten after sunset; starting sometime between 9 – 11 pm, especially in the summer when the coolness of the night is both comforting and appetizing.
When eating out, try choosing your food after where you are: meat in the mountains, seafood at the coast. Whether you choose traditional cooked food or a delicious selection of mezedes, remember that the main ingredient of the meal is not placed on the table: it is the company you share the food with.
Greek meals are informal, and all "fine-dining" etiquette-rules can easily be left behind, and take into consideration that the Lesviots always emphasize the "sharing" part of a meal: Instead of ordering individual dishes, share a selection between you, and pick from the different plates. In general the knife is used mostly to cut the food in smaller pieces, while a piece of bread and your fork is more than sufficient to eat and enjoy. If a friend pass by, why not invite him to the table and share the day and tastes with him? When it eventually is time to pay, one person normally pays the table bill: As there for sure will be another time and another shared meal, somebody else will pay the next time.
Special food for special days
Traditionally Wednesdays and Fridays are vegetarian days for all Greeks, but this is not followed as strictly anymore.
The start of the 40 days of Lent is often marked with village gatherings and vegetarian dishes such as taramosalata (roe salad), sweet halva and bread. Even if few places serve meat at all the first days of the Lent, the tradition is fading and meat is found on tables also before Easter.
Easter is the most important religious event in Greece, and of course it has its special dishes. The sweet bread and bright red eggs are on all tables, and the grilled or stuffed lamb is enjoyed together with family, friends and neighbours in gardens, houses and taverns on Easter Sunday.
Lamb is associated with festive events, and used to be typical for weddings and also on 1st May.
Home made marzipan is traditionally served at engagements and at wedding anniversaries, and on the first day of the New Year a special pie with a "lucky coin" hidden inside is eaten.
Birthdays are normally not celebrated, but on your name day you offer your friends sweets or cake - and if you go out: you pay for the table.
Lesvos is known for its many festivals, and at the Festival of the Bull beef is naturally served, as are sardines at the Festival of the Sardines. When churches or villages have celebrations, the special kiskieki is often offered to participants.
One year after someone's death, this is marked in church with serving of wine mixed with olive oil and cinnamon and special shaped bread to church-goers, villagers, friends and family.
Some common, traditional dishes:
Moussaka: The Greek dish regarded as more typical by foreigners than locals. Layers of eggplant, minced meat and bechamel sauce.
Hirino Lemonato: Pork-meat served the traditional way: with lemon sauce.
Kokkinisto: Tasty dish with beef in "kokkino"; red, tomato sauce.
Gemista: Tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice.
Bamies: Fresh okra in tomato sauce.
Tiropita: Traditional feta-cheese pie.
Gigantes: White giant beans (honey beans) in tomato sauce.
Fakes: Thick lentil soup, often eaten with garlic cloves and vinegar.
Agginares: Boiled artichokes and other vegetables.
Greek food is normally presented simply, it is not common to decorate the dishes or to have more than one dish on the plate. So if you order meat, it will typically be served only with a half lemon on the side, and if you want for instance fried potatoes with it, that will be served on another plate.
Choosing ouzo-mezedes
Ouzo is more or less never drunk without something to nibble on. The always essential bread will normally be put on the table first, here are some general ideas to get you started ordering mezedes.
Olives and salads are nice with everything, also ouzo. Why not try red or white taramosalata (roe-salad), a few salted sardines, a piece of salted mackerel, and when eating in Skala Kallonis; the famous local fried or grilled sardines fresh from the Gulf.
Fried calamari, prawns and octopus grilled or in vinegar are fantastic combinations with ouzo.
Try also fried and/or stuffed vegetables, something pickled, small pitas, fried hard-cheese (graviéra) or feta baked in the oven. To really enjoy the tastes, use a peace of bread to scoop up sauce and oil from the plates.
Kalí óreksi ke yámas! (Bon appetite and cheers!)
Lesvos is an island of contrasts. In nature Lesvos is like a mini-cosmos in its diversity, and the Lesviots live in a sphere between modern, liberal Europe and the traditional lifestyle of their village. Compared to other Greek islands Lesvos is quiet and relatively untouched by mass-tourism. This is the perfect island for individualists looking for a genuine experience in a friendly atmosphere, and to understand, enjoy and participate, some information about everyday life in Lesvos might be useful.
Most Lesviots do not define themselves as Europeans, but as Greeks. They are spontaneous, out-going and laid-back, valuing their social life, public relations, families and friends.
The ties to birthplace and village are strong, and only parts of the western pop culture have established itself here. On Lesvos you will not find any McDonald’s, but numerous small and family-owned taverns and shops. Most places either Greek folk music or Greek pop is played, even in clubs and the few discos. At events young and old sing and dance to the special folk music of the island.
New generations often inherit their parents’ occupation and businesses, even if the parents have paid for a university-education, and continue to live according to traditions while watching the “European way” on TV and Internet.
In the streets the newest car models park next to patient donkeys, and in public offices the vast bureaucracy of the past is mixed with new regulations from the EU.
The Lesviots are relaxed and hospitable, and though in some ways forgotten by Athens and the country’s leaders, eager to have opinions on and solve national as well as international politics and problems.
Even if the discussions at lunch, dinner or into the mild nights can sound angry, the good mood and big laughs are never far away. Personal matters as well as stories and anecdotes find its audience, and on an island were most aspects of life is based on social relations, connections and friendships are made and confirmed during meals and informal gatherings. There is a saying that “Lesviots don’t have hobbies, they have friends”, and you might easily be one of them.
Shops follow a rhythm dictated by the climate: open in the morning, closed mid-day, and open again in the afternoon several days per week. The hours between 13:30 to 18:00 are quiet on Lesvos, as most people are either sleeping or resting though the hottest hours. In Kalloni shops are open ca 18.00 – 20.30 on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday.
As the Lesviots like to park their car or moped as close as possible to where they have errands, the streets can get crowded and busy during the opening hours.
The Greek Orthodox celebrations and customs have widespread participation, especially the important and spectacular Easter Celebration.
Most homes have a small altar with icons and the holy flame burning, and young and old cross themselves when seeing a church, and before and after eating. The many churches and monasteries are frequently visited, and open day and night; maybe you would like to leave a few coins behind and light a candle for those you love?
Most large religious celebrations are combined with dancing, eating, drinking and shopping opportunities, and as with all festive events it gets loud, late and joyful.
Lesvos is known for its many festivals and feasts, and also has some special traditions on days celebrated all over Greece. For details and dates see also “Special Days”.
Most museums, sights and historic places are open all days except Mondays.
Churches, chapels and monasteries are open all day and night, and visitors are asked to show respect by covering shoulders and knees, and not to enter if “provocatively dressed”.
It is strictly forbidden to remove or take items from any sight or place that possibly can be of historical/archeological interest.
Environmental issues are starting to be prioritised, but here is still little or no recycling. You can help the environment by not littering, by reducing your amount of waste and by saving water and electricity.
Please notice that toilet paper or other items are not to be thrown in WC’s, but to be left in bins provided for this purpose. This because neither pipes nor biological waste systems are dimensioned for handling large amounts of paper.
During the long and dry summers locals and visitors are asked to take care so as to avoid forest fires.
Due to military installations and bases, some places have signs indicating “no photographing allowed”.
ATMs can be found in all larger villages, but most shops outside of the capital only accept cash.
Different from many other places in Greece, the tap-water can safely be drunk on Lesvos.
The Lesviots are honest people and crime rates remarkable low.
Copyright ©: Okeanides, 2006